Most common causes
- Door not sealing. A worn or dirty gasket, or a door blocked by a bag or ice tray, lets warm, humid air in. That moisture becomes frost and the freezer struggles to stay cold.
- Defrost system failure. When the defrost heater, sensor, or control fails, ice covers the evaporator coil and blocks the airflow that keeps the freezer cold.
- Evaporator fan not running. The fan moves cold air from the coil into the freezer. If it fails, the freezer warms up even though the compressor runs.
- Dirty condenser coil. A dusty coil keeps the refrigerator from releasing heat, so it cannot cool the freezer properly.
- Overpacked or blocked vents. Packing food against the vents stops air from moving through the freezer.
- Temperature setting too warm. The freezer should be set to about 0F. A bumped control can raise the temperature without anyone noticing.
What you can safely check
- Set the freezer to about 0F and check it with a freezer thermometer after a few hours.
- Close the freezer door on a dollar bill around the edges. If it pulls out easily, clean the gasket or have it replaced.
- Move food away from the vents and do not pack the freezer completely full.
- Unplug the refrigerator and vacuum the condenser coil.
- Look at the back wall of the freezer. A thick, even layer of frost usually means a defrost problem.
- For heavy frost, move food to a cooler, unplug the unit, and let it defrost with the door open and towels down. Do not chip at the ice.
Call a technician if
- The freezer stays above 10F after you check settings and seals
- Frost returns within days of a manual defrost
- The evaporator fan is silent or noisy
- The fridge section is also getting warm
What affects the repair cost
A door gasket or fan motor is usually a moderate repair. Defrost parts vary by model. Sealed system problems cost more and are worth discussing on older units. We test first and give you the price before starting.
